Deviled Eggs are a divisive food — people either love them or hate them; I haven’t seen much middle ground. We’re not even in agreement whether they are ‘deviled’ or ‘devilled’. What’s my take? Let me put it this way: when I see a plate of deviled eggs, I have to remind myself that it’s probably not a good idea to eat half a dozen in one sitting.
Deviled eggs have been around since Roman times and were most popular throughout Europe and America. There are countless recipes and most of them are very similar, with main variation being toppings and garnish. They also top them with pickled herring in Sweden (of course, they top most things with pickled herring in Sweden).
On a visit to Momofuku Noodle Bar, they had a special appetizer of deviled eggs that made me start to consider different ways they can be made. Being the deviled egg fan I am, I had to get one. I think it was given the David Chang twist by using soy sauce and garnished with a fried wonton chip, I thought maybe it had some miso in it. I never really thought of it, but after that trip to Momofuku, I’m surprised there are not more ethnic interpretations of this classic snack aside from the garnish, considering the versatility of this hors d’ oeuvre.
It started me thinking about taking it a little further with the Asian influence. I’m no stranger to miso in cooking, so I knew the miso paste mixed in with the yolks would add the perfect touch of flavor and saltiness. What’s an egg without salt? Not nearly as good, that’s what. Ponzu adds a little citrus tang and helps to thin out the mixture. I also added a little mayo just to make it a little creamier. The only other ingredient is a dash of sesame oil (a little goes a long way).
I considered doing the wonton chip but that just seems like it’s for effect and doesn’t really add flavor. A bacon strip worked better and added a smoky flavor. The use of chili paste or Sriracha gives it some heat but, let’s face it, that’s how they got the name deviled eggs. The scallions and sesame seeds finish the whole thing of with a little texture and crunch.
I'm thinking this might start an exploration into ethnic varieties of deviled eggs for me.